About david

I am a world citizen wondering at everything it has to offer.

Floating like a cork

Today was a transition day as Rod and I were traveling from Petra to Amman.

On our way, we stopped at Karak to visit a castle built by the crusaders. Not much to say about the castle as it is very comparable to castles built in France at the same period. The nice thing about it is that it is built very strategically close to the King’s road that was the main commercial way at that time and offers great views of the surroundings including the Dead Sea.

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Our second stop was at a public beach (The Amman beach) on the shores of the Dead Sea. This was a compulsory stop in my trip as everybody I spoke to told me I had to swim in it if I was going to Jordan or Israel. Yes, you actually float very well as the pictures that are coming soon show. Seating, bouncing, walking and practicing yoga positions are activities that then replace the usual swimming. It is also really very salty as I was able to taste after splashing the water a bit too much :). It was also very hot out there so we did not stay too long. After two hours, we were back on the road.

We finally made it to the capital, Amman. It is a big city so it is difficult to get a good feel about it in one evening but so far, I qualified it of Cairo meets Hong-Kong. I will let you make up what it means for now ;).

Roaming in the streets of Petra

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Since I started to organize my trip, Petra has been figuring high up on my list of places to see with Ancient Egypt. So it was with no lack of excitement that on my first day, I hiked the 30 minutes necessary to go from the entrance, through the famous Siq, to the even more famous monument of Petra: the Treasury (Al-Kazdneh).

While walking through the Siq (a very narrow path in the mountain at the bottom of a crack), I could not resist and heard myself whistle the song of Indiana Jones thinking of the scene in the holy grail where he is in Petra. Don’t repeat that though! The Siq in itself is quite a sight and to think it is completely natural is mind boggling! As in the rest of Petra, the colors of the sandstone are beautiful and intertwined in complex random patterns giving the rock a never ending appeal calling for picture after picture. I was quite trigger happy the first day so I had to control myself the following two days I was roaming around Petra.

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At the end of the Siq, the Treasury appears progressively in front of you. It is just massive! The refinement of the carving and the size of it cannot leave you insensible. The almost perfect rose color of the whole piece adds to the dramatic look. I was in awe!

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But this was nothing after all as this is just one of the many other great places that you can see in Petra. Petra is a complete city with hundreds of cave habitations, tombs, an impressive amphitheatre, places of sacrifice located at the top of the neighborhood mountains, churches and a monastery. It was created and modified over many centuries from the Nabateans to the Romans.

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It even had suburbs like Sabra located 7kms away that I visited on my first day. This was my first long hike that took me through climbing two low mounts as I had lost my path and was relying on my compass to find the place. Sabra is not usually visited by the tourists because it is out of the way and requires a long walk to reach it. It was interesting for me because it turns out Bedouins still leave in some of the caves/monuments there and it shows how Petra must have been not so long ago before it became a tourist attraction.

For my second day in Petra, I was joined by Rod. For the record, I met Rod in Dahab around 2 weeks ago. He is a cool Aussie, hey! And since we had a good time hanging out in Dahab and we were kind of going the same way, we decided to travel together for a bit. Since I knew Rod would join me in Petra, I did not do the main hikes on the first day. We hence visited the main city and did two of the main hikes that day. The first one was to one place of sacrifice located to the top of the mountain facing the Amphitheatre from where you get a great view towards the main city and also over the Treasury. I actually had done that hike the evening before but I did not mind seeing the view in the morning.

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On our way down, we crossed the path of a goat herd that was going up the stairs toward the top of the mountain without any human intervention. As I was walking by the last goat, this one bigger than the others and that might have been the alpha buck looked at me with a “what are you doing on my territory look?”. I starred back but soon realize I was on the wrong side of the staircase meaning not on the mountain side! Hum, I was a clear winner (don’t you think?) and just ran downstairs to celebrate the victory as this looser just continued climbing in the other way. OK, OK, goats 1 – David 0.

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Our second hike was to the second most famous monument in Petra: the Monastery. It is a monument similar to the Treasury that was carved at the top of one of the mountains but even bigger: 40 meters high by 47 meters wide with a facade carved at least 2 meters deep! The monument is very impressive and as the Treasury, it is very well conserved since protected of the wind by its location.On the third day, Rod and I went for a hike through a canyon going from the entry of the Siq to the main city. It is a little tricky at some points but it was very rewarding with cool spots and great stone colors all over. We also hiked to another place of sacrifice located on a mountain top at the left of the amphitheatre from which you get a 360 degrees view of the place.

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On our way down, we crossed a small herd of goats (again!?!) but did not get into any kind of confrontation ;). Actually, very soon after, we started hearing the cry of a goat coming from a hole in the rock. This kind of hole is plentiful in Petra and I think they were simpler tombs. Anyway, a goat that looked pregnant had gone down inside the hole and seemed not able to get out. We debated a while about the best way to get it out and finally, a girl that had joined us offered to drop big stones on one side of the hole so as to provide a step to the poor goat. We dropped some stones and encouraged (read pushed!) the goat to get out. It did not want to move but thinking this would be enough and not knowing what else to do, we decided to retire and leave it alone. Soon after, it had got out and came to the edge of the stairs to say thanks to us! OK, maybe not but let me dream for a second :).

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Beaten down by so much hiking and climbing, we ended up chilling at the top of the amphitheatre that overlooks the main street and provides an ever ending attraction with the Bedouins offering camel and donkey rides to the tourists as well as overpriced souvenirs or drinks.

Three days were enough for me. I did not see everything in Petra but I had a good feel about the whole place and visited the most important sites. It is not an easy visit if you do not use the donkeys or camels as it is a very wide place and covering it all requires walking a lot. Walking from the main gate through the Siq to the city center can become boring (hence the hike through the canyon on the third morning!).

After all, my favorite place has to be the amphitheatre because of its feel and its location in the city as well as its coolness in the afternoon when it provides you with a more than welcome shade while offering a great view on the rest of the site and the people.

The Call of the Desert (Part 3)

After spending 2 days in Aqaba taking it easy and updating this site, I thought it was time to resume the visiting and took the closest spot on my list and go there.

It turns out it was a visit of Wadi Rum. Wadi Rum is a famous canyon located close to Dahab so this would be my third night in the desert.

As I said I would not do and I should never do again, I used the service of a travel agency in Aqaba to setup the tour for me. And I got ripped off! :(. Well, hopefully, this will serve as a lesson.

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Anyway, around 11AM, a driver took me to Wadi Rum where I met with Abdullah that would be my Bedouin guide for the afternoon and the night. He was very nice and as we were talking, he told me very fast how much he got for taking me and that if I had gone directly through him, I would have paid half…. That done, and me going over it, I was able to enjoy the greatness of the place.

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Abdullah drove me around the canyon stopping at many of the famous sites so that I could take pictures. It is quite an amazing place but since it is quite similar to Wadi Araba in Sinai, the novelty factor was a bit off and I did not enjoy it as much as I did last time. Still, it is a great place and I enjoyed it a lot.

There are some cool natural formations like bridges and funny shaped rocks. We also drove through the main Canyon.

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We finally arrived to the camp around 6PM and after some roaming and useless dune climbing, I ended up finding a cool place to watch the sunset. It was nice.

Dinner was served soon after. Taking the risk of sounding (reading?) spoiled, it was not as good as my 2 previous times in the desert.

After dinner, Abdullah played of a one string instrument while singing traditional Bedouin songs.I sadly don’t remember the name of the instrument. It was played with a kind of small bow and was producing a high pitch (almost crying) sound. It was quite interesting even if I did not like it too much after all.

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Finally, the best time of the day came and I retired to my private room with queen bed, sand carpet and star-ceiling to enjoyed the silence and peace of the desert while loosing myself in the unclouded, stars sprinkled, dark night. No needs to tell you I fell asleep like a baby :).

Morning came fast and we were on our way out by 8AM with the firm intention of getting me on the bus to Petra. Unfortunately, the bus had been cancelled and I had to find another way to reach Petra. The Bedouins got me to the main road where all the buses pass by and I was left on my own to catch the right one! After much waiting, hand waiving to buses that would not stop and buses that would stop but were not going in the right direction, I was joined by a British couple that was in the same situation than me. Once 3, it was easier to find transportation and very soon a mini-bus stopped and offered to take us there for 20JD(Jordanian Dinar). It was a fair price and we were not really in a situation of power so we accepted gladly and were on our way to Petra.

Last Pictures of Egypt

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Alright, I stopped smoking the shisha and hanging out with the cats and caught up with my backlog of pictures.

With last time, you have now 200 more pictures to look at. I hope it will keep you busy for some time ;).

Last time, the new pictures where in the folders:

This time, the new pictures are all in the folder Sinai-Red Sea
I edited a bunch of posts too so go check them out to get some context for the pictures (until I add some captions and it might take months before I get to that!):

Enjoy and let me know what you like :).

Welcome to Jordan

Yep, I finally did it, after lingering and enjoying everything the red sea and Dahab have to offer for 18 days, I left and found my way to Jordan.

I left yesterday morning at 10AM. It took me 1 hour to reach Nuweiba where I bought my ticket for the fast afternoon ferry that was scheduled for 3PM.

I went through the police control inside the port and found a place to seat while I was waiting for the boat. Around 2PM, I started to kind of wonder if I was at the right place since there was not that many people around especially no foreigners! I started walking around the docks and found a policeman that told me the boat would be here in 15-20 minutes. Once it got there, I waited outside and came aboard once everybody coming from Jordan had debarked the boat.

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The immigration agent that controlled my passport was not happy since I did not have a departure stamp… Well, nobody really told me about that at the first place and since I could not read any of the signs, I did not end up where I should have been and I did not get the stamp. Anyway, we are in Egypt and police has its way so they stopped one of the big empty tourist bus that was driving by and ordered the driver to take me to the right place, once there, an agent filled the form for me and stamped my passport in less than 30 seconds without much questioning, then another policeman stopped another of these empty bus that took me back to the ship. All in all, it took 5 minutes to get this stamp while I am sure it would have taken me an hour in line to get it if I had known I needed to go to a specific place before boarding the boat! In place, I had plenty of time to read the Jordan section of my Middle East Lonely Planet and listen to my IPod. I also stroke a conversation with one of the guy moving stuff in between the trucks and the boats.

The boat trip went very well. I gave my passport to the Jordanian immigration agent early in the boat and recovered it once we had debarked in Aqaba. I found the way to forget it in between that moment and the bag check though but I realized it and got it back without much trouble. It might not have been a good day after all since I usually do not loose or forget things!

Anyway, I found a hotel in Aqaba. The first thing to know is that things in Jordan are way more expensive than in Egypt. The country is way more developed. Looking around at the type and quality of the cars that Jordanians drive is just one example of that development. It really looks like a European city.

I am now planning my trip through Jordan. I will report about that later :).